KaledonieEighty million years of separate biology
Grande Terre · Loyalty Islands · KuniéFive sections · Twenty entries · English
A botanist crouched over a specimen bag in the maquis
Plants · read this one first

The shrub that rewrote the family tree

A modest shrub found only here that sits at the base of the entire flowering-plant family tree — the sister lineage to every other flower on earth.

A botanist crouched over a specimen bag in the maquis · Photograph

New Caledonia separated from Gondwana on the order of eighty million years ago and drifted with a cargo of ancient lineages, most of them since lost elsewhere. What is left is not a smaller version of Australia or of the Pacific. It is a place where the rock, the reef and a handful of survivors have been working on each other, alone, for a very long time.

Section 01 — Ground and Deep Time

Everything above the soil is explained by the soil

Peridotite, thrust over the southern third of Grande Terre, weathers into a soil loaded with nickel, chromium and magnesium and short of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. It is lethal to most plants. The survivors specialise so narrowly that a species list can change from one massif to the next — and a few of them carry the metal in their own tissue.

⅓of Grande Terre is ultramafic rock
26%nickel by dry weight in Pycnandra latex
74%of vascular plants grow nowhere else
A red ultramafic road cut with scrub holding on to it
A cut through laterite. The colour is iron oxide, left behind as weathering strips the silica out of peridotite.Photograph · Flux (generated)
Section 03 — The Lagoon

A barrier reef of some 1,500 kilometres, doubled off the north-west

Inside it lies one of the largest enclosed lagoons on earth: sand flats, seagrass, patch reef, and passes where the tide runs hard enough to be heard from the shore. Off Voh and Poum the structure repeats itself, with a second lagoon caught between two reef lines.

Thirteen places pinned to the entries that describe them. Click a pin to read the entry.Geometry at true coordinates

A flora assembled by a soil most plants cannot survive, inside a reef that keeps the ocean out. Nothing about this island is incidental.

A grey kagu with orange legs and bill walks across a forest floor
A kagu on the litter: ash-grey, loose crest, and the orange bill it drives into the leaf mould.Photo: Kagu 0A2A3921 · Wikimedia Commons
Section 04 — Animals

A grey bird with no relatives, and a crow that makes hooks

The kagu is the only living member of its family: near-flightless, ash-grey, hunting by ear on the forest floor. Its nearest relative is the sunbittern, on the other side of the Pacific. In the same forest Corvus moneduloides cuts stepped strips from pandanus leaves and works them into hooked probes — one of very few animals outside the primates known to manufacture a tool.

Section 05 — Kanak Land

The grande case, and around thirty languages still spoken

A conical house built around a central post, carved jambs at the door and a spear at the ridge, standing at the head of the alley on a clan’s ground. Customary tenure is a present arrangement, not a historical one; Drehu, Nengone, Paicî, Xâràcùü and two dozen more languages are spoken across Grande Terre and the Loyalty Islands.

Traditional case structures nestled among coastal trees with a mountain and bay beyond
Ten timber cases on the Tina peninsula, slatted on the windward side so the trade wind passes through them.Photo: Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre, filmed in June 2013 · Wikimedia Commons